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Shoe Construction
StyleForum member jcusey made a really nice graphic many years ago showing the inside of a Blake/ Rapid stitched shoe. As many readers may know, Blake/ Rapid and Goodyear welt constructions are the two most common methods for making high-end footwear. They’re essentially different ways of attaching the shoe’s sole. Blake/ Rapid is done as you see above – the stitching goes through the sole, insole, and upper in order to attach all three parts together. That’s why when you look inside a Blake stitched shoe, you can usually see the stitching go around the perimeter of the insole (the part of the shoe your feet actually comes in contact with).
Goodyear differs in that there’s no interior stitching. Instead, there’s one line of stitching that goes through the insole, upper, and a welt strip, and then another that attaches the welt strip to the outsole. There’s also a canvas rib just under the insole, which creates a sort of “void” that is taken up by a cork filling. Some people say this canvas rib is prone to breakdowns, but this matter is so controversial among footwear enthusiasts that it’s probably best left alone for now (though, if you really want to learn about it, you can read this forum thread at Ask Andy About Clothes). You can see the inside of a Goodywear welted shoe here.
Of course, none of this information is really useful or practical unless you’re in the shoe trade, but it is fun to know.
Just in case you didn’t hear me the first time.
STYLE INSPIRATION. Hackett London Spring/Summer 2014 presents a collection inspired by the universe of cricket. Light fabrics and well tailored pieces combined dress a relaxed and still elegant gentleman.
A marca Hackett London, em sua coleção de Primavera/Verão 2014, apresente um alfaiataria refinada em tecidos leves vestindo um “gentleman” relaxado e elegante.
The Blue Danube, a unique Grieb & Benzinger timepiece uses a Patek Philippe based mouvement created for Tiffany that dates to 1890.
Versatility and Happenstance
Yesterday I wrote about a rather pricey ($35) pocket square I picked up over the weekend at the Etro outlet. As you can see it’s a rather complex and, to some I’m sure, rather disjunctive set of patterns and colors. But that’s what I love about it.
It’s made from an incredibly gossamer linen, and mashes together a number of different aesthetic styles. To me (and I’m no art historian) the floral designs have an East Asian feel to them, the paisley is grounded in a more South Asian look, the borders feel a little Middle Eastern, and the geometric rectangles and circles evoke something a little more modern (not that one can’t be East Asian, South Asian, or Middle Eastern and modern…). And I can’t even begin to describe all the different colors that come together in the piece.
What’s great about a square like this other than the sheer delight one gets from looking at it unfolded, is the mileage you can get out of stuffing it into a chest pocket in a number of random configurations. It’s incredibly versatile.
Here I’ve just folded and stuffed it into a jacket pocket in 5 different ways, and each one unveils something different about the pocket square. I feel like I could probably wear this every day this summer and look like I’ve got a different pocket square each day.
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